Matthew Accarrino modeled resilience in the wake of the pandemic. A chef and restaurateur, the committed rider was susceptible to the massive changes that swept through the industry. He persevered, creating wildly popular take-out fried chicken and coffee & donut pop-ups. Read on for ways to persevere with better food through the holiday season and a look at Matthew’s work including recipes for holiday goodness.
In 2020 with all the uncertainty in the world, getting out and riding the bike became all the more important, even with races and events on hold; to keep active, clear the mind and continue doing something we love.
A great coffee stop is a part of many great rides. To solve my dilemma of where to go, I decided to bring the coffee stop to me (and share it with others). I started Accarrino’s Coffee & donuts on Weekends out of the front door of my Michelin Star restaurant SPQR Fillmore in San Francisco. Some time on, we are going strong, and don’t plan on stopping. What started as a ‘pop-up’ has become a neighborhood staple and real community builder. Yes we get plenty of cyclists but also neighborhood traffic and people looking for something fun to do while out on a weekend. We actually get a whole lot of crossover, people discovering our restaurant for Coffee & Donuts and coming back for dinner and vice versa. I even started my own pancake and waffle mix (and granola) company called the Electric Breakfast Company, which is available at the restaurant and online. I do love a good breakfast.
While as the name suggests we mainly focus on fresh hot (cooked to order beignet style donuts, I once cooked in New Orleans), espresso and coffee drinks, we have from time to time added a wide array of baked items from weekend to weekend.
Here just in time for the holidays are a few favorites baking recipes to make at home, coincidentally they work well as nutrition on the bike. A cyclist chef that makes his own ride food…go figure.
Makes (plenty) 12-20 each
• 610g AP flour or Gluten free flour (about 5 cups)
• 100g Sugar, your choice which (1/2cup)
• 10g Baking powder (2 ¼tsp)
• 4g Baking soda (3/4tsp)
• 4g Salt (1tsp)
• 227g Butter, small dice (8oz)
• 453g Cream or milk, even alternative milks work here
• 55g Egg (1 egg)
As needed:
• Grated cheddar or other cheese including parmesan for topping
• Kale, stemmed and chopped
• Flour for rolling
Combine dry ingredients in a large bowl and work butter into tiny pieces (biscuit method).
Add kale and cheese. Add egg and liquid. Stir in using a spoon to form a cohesive dough, finish by hand on a lightly floured surface. Take care not to overwork.
Roll on a well-floured surface 1” thick and cut triangles. You can gently reform any trim and re-roll.
Spritz with water or brush with egg wash and top with a sprinkle of cheese.
Bake at 350-375 degrees for 10-12 minutes or desired doneness.
Makes one 8x12 cake or 18-24 small muffin size cakes
This recipe makes a rich cake with some potential add ins to up the texture and nutrition. The cooked rice is a great way to use up leftovers and create some texture. Just a bit does the trick but I’ll leave the amount up to you.
• 4 Eggs (200g)
• 400g Sugar, your choice (2cups)
• 15g Vanilla extract (3 ½tsp)
• 8 Bananas, ripe but firm (around 1200 grams)
• 33g Rice flour or AP flour (2 ¾cups)
• 12g Cinnamon, ground (4tsp)
• 5g Salt (1+tsp)
• 4g Baking powder (3/4tsp)
• 8g Baking soda (1 2/3tsp)
• 75g Coconut oil, melted (3/4cup)
• 175g Vegetable oil (3/4cup)
• 50g Dates, pitted and chopped finely, about 3 (optional)
As needed:
• Nutella, almond or peanut butter (optional)
• Cooked rice (optional)
In a stand mixer whip the eggs and sugar till light and fluffy, 4-5 minutes.
Add in the vanilla and then the bananas, peeled and whole is fine. Just go on a lower speed and the bananas will break up.
Add in the dry ingredients and combine on medium-low speed.
Finish with the oils and mix till combined.
If using the dates or cooked rice add them in now.
Bake in a sprayed cake pan or muffin tins in a preheated 325 degree oven for approximately 15 minutes, or until set and golden.
Remove and let cool. If desired slice the cakes in half horizontally and spread a bit of nutella or nut butter between and close back up.
Wrap up and take out on your next ride. This also works for a dinner party or everyday dessert with some yogurt, frozen yogurt, dare I say ice cream or even chocolate sauce, you get the idea…
Makes 14-18 2 ½" to 3” cookies
These cookies are great as is or filled with the coconut and dried apple ‘icing’ for extra flavor. Big bonus, the icing does not run when it gets warm (say in your pocket on a ride). The buckwheat groats give a little extra crunch, which is great for adding texture to keep eating interesting. No buckwheat you can use quinoa.
• 227g Butter (8oz)
• 270g Light brown sugar (1 ¼cups)
• 2 Eggs (110gm)
• 10g Vanilla extract (2 1/3tsp)
• 306g AP or Gluten Free flour (2 ½cups)
• 50g Buckwheat flour (scant ½cup)
• 8g Baking soda (1 ½tsp)
• 6g Baking powder (1 ½tsp)
• 4g Salt (1tsp)
• 85g Buckwheat groats (1/2cup)
• 2g Cinnamon, ground (1tsp)
Cream butter and sugar in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle till light and fluffy, 5 minutes. Add eggs one at a time and incorporate. Add in the dry ingredients and mix to combine at low speed.
Scoop to desired size, I like a #60 which is about 40gm and yields a 2 ½-3” cookie.
Bake at 325 degrees for 12-14 minutes.
Cool and fill with the icing if using.
INGREDIENTS:
• 50g Coconut oil (1/4cup)
• 227g 10X (powdered sugar) (8oz)
• 38g Skim milk, almond milk or even water (2 ½tbsp)
• 2gVanilla extract (1/3 tsp)
• 2g Cinnamon, ground (1tsp)
• 4g Salt (1tsp)
• 3g Apple, dry (1oz)
METHOD:
Combine in a food processor together till finely chopped and spreadable or ‘icing’ like. This takes a few minutes.